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Step three. Set the table saw blade to 10 degrees and trim the other side.
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A days work. 52+ toothed pieces, 156+ flat pieces.
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To figure out the length of belting I need to make my tracks I taped pieces
of wood to the drive, idler, and front and back sets of bogies. These
pieces represent the inner pieces of my track system.
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I then wrapped some belting around the wheels and measures for length. It
came out to around 83".
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Once I had the correct length I drew up a template on the computer and
printed it out. The template has lines showing the placement of the track
pieces. Here I am test fitting it on T5.
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This close-up of the template shows the end joint shape. The track pieces
will be centered over the lines.
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I think I've spent almost as much time building jigs for this project as I
have on T5 itself! Here's the jig to assemble the tracks. It's a piece of
cedar with an edge piece attached to one side to line everything up
straight. Spacing lines were drawn on it, copied from the paper template.
Cedar, which is soft, was used because the nails (5/8" brads) I'll be using
to through nail the inner and outer track pieces will protrude all the way
through and the cedar will let me pull the track off easily. The nails will
be sanded off flush on a stationary belt sander.
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Here's a close-up showing the use of a square block to align the outer track
pieces in the jig. You can see the spacing lines. Tape, I wanted to use
double sided carpet tape to hold the pieces in place but I ran out so I used
wide masking tape folded over on itself. It worked OK.
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Glue is spread on the pieces and the track layed on top. We'll see how the
Goop holds up.
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The inner pieces are now glued and nail on. In this pic you can see that I
took the time to profile the track teeth so that they will hopefully engage
the wheels easer. I don't know if I needed to do this, but you never know,
and it would be impossible to do after the tracks are assembled.
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